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day 3
By Marty Batchelder 14 February 2000

Guten Tag,

Today I took the car and drove to Heidelberg and then out through the Oldenwald (old forest).

Heidelberg is probably best known as the oldest university town in Germany. It sits on the bank of the Nekkar River up against the hills of the Oldenwald. The traffic in the city is horrendous with cars, trucks, bicycles, motor scooters, trolleys, and pedestrians vying for fight-of-way at every intersection. The orderly German authorities have rules for such encounters but I didn’t see everyone following them. I drove around in the newer part city and saw the same types of architecture as in Darmstadt. The city was much more crowded, however. The Aldstadt (old city) is an area of old and restored buildings on single-lane cobblestone or brick streets. I didn’t try driving there but contented myself with looking down on it from above at the Schlob.

I got to the Schlob by driving up steep, narrow, one-way streets. You have to understand that the nobleman always built his Schlob high up, and in as difficult position as he could. Invaders could capture the city, just so long as they didn’t get to him! It’s hard to imagine anyone living in as building as large as this one. It was built over a period of 400 years, each nobleman adding new portions to it. It was captured by the French, who thought it appropriate to blow up portions of it so that it couldn’t be used as a fortress again. One of the things I found of interest was an arch that was built to celebrate a marriage in 1615. How’s that for enduring love.

I wandered around the grounds for quite a while but opted not to take the guided tour since I didn’t have a lot of time to spare. I wanted to see the Oldenwald!

The Oldenwald is reached by going east out of Heidelberg along the Nekkar River and then turning north. The forest, like those of much of Europe, are not really “old”. It is an area of hills, rivers, farmland and small picturesque villages. It was a very pleasant trip. There are a lot of small villages with a Schlob sitting above them. A lot of the work on the farms is still done with work-horses. Some of the villages are so close to the road that the doorways, garage doors and even barn doors open directly onto the sidewalks. The roads are extremely narrow with no guardrails and no shoulders. Even though there are many picturesque areas, it is impossible to stop and take pictures. You have to understand that, except in the villages, the speed limit is 100k/h (62 mph) and German drivers don’t take very kindly to persons going under the speed limit or stopped in the road.

It was cold all day with drizzle and even some sleet and snow were mixed in at the higher elevations.

Ingmar took us to dinner in an authentic German cheese restaurant. It was in a small town in the Oldenwald that he had lived in as a child. The menu consisted of different types of cheeses and sausages. I had a large salad.

Maybe tomorrow we’ll get some sun.

altstadt_1.jpg
Altstadt_#1
schloss_1.jpg
Schloss_#1
schloss_2.jpg
Schloss_#2
schloss_3.jpg
Schloss_#3
schloss_4.jpg
Schloss_#4

 

Auf Weidersehn,
Marty

 

day 3 - germany